I am notoriously picky about cocktails. Anything that includes pre-made mixer from a bottle is sneered at, fruit cocktails that have syrup instead of muddled fruit are rejected and woe betide anyone that puts lemon rather than lime into G&T. So when I find somewhere with a well stocked back bar and bartenders that really know their stuff, I suffer a dilemma. Shout hurrah to all and sundry about how great the place is or keep it a secret and avoid having so many new people try it that I can never get a table again? Calooh Callay in East London is just too cool to keep under wraps though. Whimsically decorated to make you feel that you've just stepped into Wonderland (you have to walk through a wardrobe to get to the two main bars!), it's been wonderfully put together. Small details like the flamingo peering out from behind the oversized pocket watch in the upstairs bar sit next to the spotlit umbrella lampshades. But where this place really comes into its own is the loo. Bizarre, I know, but stay with me here. The walls are covered from ceiling to floor with cassettes! Not since the nutty mirrored labyrinth that is Crazy Bear have I been so charmed by a loo. So the next time you're in London, this should definitely be on your visit list! I took photos but my camera phone doesn't have a great flash so pics are from The Me Magazine, 4bars.com.au and Urban Junkies.
Portugal is one of the biggest cork exporters in the world. Or, rather, it was before someone noticed that cork sometimes shrinks and wine gets corked and, ooh, look, metal screwcaps are less romantic but much more efficient. So that's that apparently, Portugal's great global status bites the dust yet again. Or does it? Pelcor would have you think differently. They specialise in making other items from cork - everything from bags to cushions to aprons. However, their coolest item has to be their umbrella made from, you guessed it, cork. Naturally waterproof and very light, this would be an ideal gift for someone that likes wine! They've just opened a showroom in Lisbon too - worth a quick look to see just how much can be done with cork if nothing else!
And now for something just a little bit different. After spending a couple of hours on Saturday with one of my best friends, getting a bit sniffly as I watched her model a wedding dress (and this morning spending ages cutting down the original draft of this post to ensure it doesn't hint at the dresses she's been trying - very hush hush!), I'm in a bit of a pensive mood. I've been to weddings before - some have been joyful, some have been uncomfortable, all have been booze-soaked - but this is one I'm truly looking forward to. And although this one won't be in Portugal, it gives me a good excuse to showcase some of the work of Portuguese photojournalist Eduardo Oliveira. I've seen his work before and always really liked the playfulness of his photojournalism. His portfolio can be found on his website and is really worth a look. He's technically good but, more importantly, he manages to make the pictures look romantic but not corny. Clearly he gets his clients to trust him too - would YOU jump off that wall in high heels? (L: this could prove very, very messy...gracious bridesmaids do not hobble...)
Owned by the same parent group as Vista Alegre, Atlantis Crystal is another world-renowned Portuguese brand. Their ranges go from the traditional, based on the finest and most traditional designs Portuguese glassblowers have been making for decades, to modern designs made out of the best and clearest crystal in the town of Alcobaça. These pressed glasses are some of my favourite designs and the decanters are charming. I've got a couple of set of water and wine glasses like this and the jug and decanter are next on my list. The heaviness and solidity of the glasses reminds me of using them when I was little. The bumps on the glass are just as addictive when stroked as bubble-wrap is when popped...!
This morning I'm full of saudades. Saudade is one of those words that doesn't translate terribly well into English but it conveys a sense of longing and loss - when you're missing something. And right now I'm missing home but very excited that I'll be there for a visit within a week. One of the first places I'll go when I arrive in Lisbon will be to Pasteis de Belem, the largest cafe in Portugal (which is a bit like a labyrinth, with each room leading into another, all covered with traditional tiles and full of bustling waiters in bow ties) to get some Portuguese custard tarts (Pasteis de Nata). The light, fluffy and warm tarts have crisp pastry and a soft gooey sweet filling which should have a light frosting of cinnamon and although you can get them anywhere in Portugal, if you're looking for the real deal, it's best to go right to the source and buy them at the original bakery, Pasteis de Belem. It's in Belém, next to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (the Heironymite Monastery) and it all started during the liberal revolution of 1820. All convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down in 1834, the clergy and labourers expelled. In an attempt at survival, someone from the monastery offered sweet pastries for sale in the shop; pastries that rapidly became known as 'Pasteis de Belém'. In 1837, the baking of the 'Pasteis de Belém' was begun in buildings joined to the refinery, following the ancient 'secret recipe' from the monastery. Passed on and known exclusively to the master confectioners who hand-crafted the pastries in the 'secrets room', this recipe remained unchanged to the present day. Nom nom nom indeed...
I know I've complained in the past about the proliferation of old typing letters from presses popping up on the wall of every SINGLE house featured in an interiors magazine over the last year and the fact that it's rare to walk into a friend's bathroom without having "BATH" spelled out to you in blocks on a windowsill, just in case you weren't sure where you were (I find the abundance of porcelain helps). However, I found a really original example of letters that I love on 17-21. Based in East London, their website is an absolute treasure trove of unusual pieces but this table really takes the biscuit. I want, I want, I want...
Vista Alegre has been making fine china and glass since 1824. One of the most recognised Portuguese brands, their ranges go from ultra-modern candlesticks to traditionally floral patterns on dinner sets. Needless to say, everyone in Portugal owns at least one piece they've made and it's traditional for little girls to choose a pattern when they're young and get a couple of plates for their birthday every year until they have a full dinnerware set to start them off as adults. They've got some rather questionable items (see the decorative china ducks below) but by and large, their products are beautiful. I particularly wanted to share the product photography from their new 2010 catalogue because I thought it was beautifully put together. I really like the juxtaposition of taking a ballet dancer (who is everything graceful and light) and having her smash glasses as she dances on top of them...a very interesting concept.
I'm always impressed by interior designers that push the norms and try to be different. Obviously a show home isn't for everyone but it's wonderful to see designers that try to create entire seamless themes in the houses that they outfit. Enter Portuguese interior designers Sá, Aranha e Vasconcelos. A really original team that take enormous pride in their work (and style their pictures beautifully), their website shows that they really do have breadth in their ability. They don't specialise in any one period or style. Check out two of their projects below - the Winter Garden is my favourite - I love the way that they've brought the outside in, with nary a conservatory in sight. That said, the tub in the clash of cultures house looks extremely inviting. I wish I were this brave...
Portuguese Rui Docouto, creative director of Site Specific Design created this unbelievably cool "Childhood Memories" furniture collection based on his childhood memories of living in Terceira in the Azores in the 60's. He says that there was limited entertainment in the area so he spent a lot of time playing with bugs and exploring nature. This experience led him, as an adult, to create a capsule "bug" range of lamps and chair that look like they're moving (creepily realistic - I'd love one of these!). Found via the brilliant The Best of Design.
The main reason I write London Lisbonite is because I truly believe that Portuguese design is massively underrated. Also, my friends were getting sick of me sending multiple emails entitled "Look! Isn't this cool?". But I like to stray from the beaten track every once in a while and include non-Portuguese designers and I really wanted to share a new shop, Blodwen. I really admire the two patriotic Welsh creators, who have opened a shop specialising only in Welsh products and design. Their passion for promoting Welsh crafts is evident in the way they're trying to spread them to a wider audience. They've got a huge range of articles and a wealth of information on Welsh traditions and they also have what is possibly the coolest toy of 2010: they've got a rocking sheep. At £550, it's possibly the priciest sheep in the country but can you put a price on originality and coolness? Apparently you can. Baa...
All of the vintage-inspired jewellery in the Les Petites Choses Etsy shop is handmade by Portuguese Vera Rodrigues or her daughter. Their work is utterly charming, whimsical and pretty. Based in Lisbon, they turn out really unique pieces - now if only they'd make something with an owl...*sigh*. Their blog is also worth a look too - their stock photography is really inventive and pretty.
I check in at Portuguese furniture designers Boca do Lobo site on a regular basis, not just because I love to browse and dream about furnishing an entire house with their craftsmanship, but because the photography is so perfect that it feels like you could reach through your monitor to stroke the cool, silky smoothness of their pieces. They're exhibiting at the Architectural Digest Home Design Show in New York this weekend and have unveiled a new table in their SOHO collection, York. Sheer perfection.
I was really taken with Portuguese graphic artist and illustrator Marcelo Oliveira's original typography work on the Behance network. His posters are fresh and original and his letter prints are wonderful - pretty curling script with edgy surroundings. His work is worth browsing when you get a minute!
Got something you'd like me to look at, consider or review? Or just want my recipe for the ultimate Amaretto Sour? Either way, leave me a comment or send me an email.
London Lisbonite is a design blog featuring interior design (mainly international but with a strong Portuguese design focus), homewares and DIY projects. It also acts as an electronic pinboard for everything beautiful or useful that I find in my travels, as well as DIY guides. As a lifestyle blog, London Lisbonite also includes recipes and shop/bar reviews.