Nom nom nom: Pasteis de Belem

This morning I'm full of saudades. Saudade is one of those words that doesn't translate terribly well into English but it conveys a sense of longing and loss - when you're missing something. And right now I'm missing home but very excited that I'll be there for a visit within a week. One of the first places I'll go when I arrive in Lisbon will be to Pasteis de Belem, the largest cafe in Portugal (which is a bit like a labyrinth, with each room leading into another, all covered with traditional tiles and full of bustling waiters in bow ties) to get some Portuguese custard tarts (Pasteis de Nata). The light, fluffy and warm tarts have crisp pastry and a soft gooey sweet filling which should have a light frosting of cinnamon and although you can get them anywhere in Portugal, if you're looking for the real deal, it's best to go right to the source and buy them at the original bakery, Pasteis de Belem. It's in Belém, next to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (the Heironymite Monastery) and it all started during the liberal revolution of 1820. All convents and monasteries in Portugal were shut down in 1834, the clergy and labourers expelled. In an attempt at survival, someone from the monastery offered sweet pastries for sale in the shop; pastries that rapidly became known as 'Pasteis de Belém'. In 1837, the baking of the 'Pasteis de Belém' was begun in buildings joined to the refinery, following the ancient 'secret recipe' from the monastery. Passed on and known exclusively to the master confectioners who hand-crafted the pastries in the 'secrets room', this recipe remained unchanged to the present day. Nom nom nom indeed...